OEUFS MAYONNAISE
As soon as I step foot in Paris, I am off to find my favorite rentrée meal: frites and Oeufs Mayonnaise. These soft-ish to hard boiled eggs topped with a mayonnaise sauce and garnished with diced chives and maybe a side of cornichons is available almost anywhere: brasseries, touristy spots and even in some of the finer traditional restaurants. Of course they’re not all made equal, but they all do their own spin on the most basic of offerings. It is truly a staple of French cuisine.
Oeufs Mayonnaise originated in Paris in the late 19th century as an affordable appetizer served in bistros and brasseries. It was considered "poor man's food" due to its inexpensive ingredients, making it accessible to workers and those with limited means.
The first documented recipe for Oeufs Mayonnaise appeared in Joseph Favre's "Dictionnaire universel de cuisine pratique" (Universal Dictionary of Practical Cuisine), published in 1892. Favre, a renowned Swiss chef and culinary writer, described it as a simple preparation of hard-boiled eggs cut in half and covered with mayonnaise sauce.
The original recipe called for:
- Hard-boiled eggs, halved
- Mayonnaise sauce (oil, egg yolks, vinegar, salt, and mustard)
- Optional garnishes of herbs or capers
What began as humble fare gradually gained recognition in French culinary circles. By the early 20th century, oeufs mayonnaise had transitioned from casual bistro fare to appearing on menus of more upscale establishments.
In 1990, journalist Claude Lebey founded the "Association de Sauvegarde de l'Oeuf Mayonnaise" (Association for the Preservation of Eggs Mayonnaise) to celebrate and protect this traditional dish. The association holds an annual competition in Paris to crown the best oeufs mayonnaise, judging entries on presentation, egg quality, and mayonnaise texture. After Lebey’s death the association and competition feel in danger, but his grandson carries on the torch d’oeuf!
Today, while the classic version remains popular, chefs have created numerous variations:
- Using different types of mayonnaise (truffle, saffron, herb-infused)
- Adding luxury garnishes like caviar or truffle
- Incorporating international flavors like wasabi or harissa
And let us not neglect the potential of using a store bought mayo. (Hot tip: I LOVE the spicy dijonnaise from Trader Joe’s, it’s the perfect amount of pungent heat. Also, when in Paris I get a bottle of Amora Dijon mayo to bring home).
Despite these innovations, the essence of the dish remains unchanged: perfectly cooked eggs with a silky to stiff mayonnaise sauce—a testament to how simple ingredients, prepared with care, can create something truly memorable. SO memorable, that it is my favorite meal to eat in Paris, with a perfect side of fresh frites.